Home › Forums › Eye Tracking Devices › Acer Predator Z271T EyeTracker "not working" (somehow fixed) › Reply To: Acer Predator Z271T EyeTracker "not working" (somehow fixed)
Thanks to you Alan, I managed to resolve this, “atleast how I’ve been seeing it commonly done”.
It should be clear but: UNPLUG EVERYTHING! (NO POWER; NO VIDEO CABLE; NOT stuck to the foot neither to a monitor bracket. I ended up putting it down on a chair, while holding it the whole time between legs.. so no proper setup or space.. If inside make sure you’re not charged. Ground yourself. Any damage on the monitor & opening it is probly not a good idea due to warranty, so If you dont care and it can get broken – feel free to take a journey inside it. With slow pace and enough patience you can get this done pretty easily once you get the thrill.
With more knowledge.. I started teering it slowly apart.. till the point where I just was like “Ah f*** it, just get it done.. took my whole sunday” so prepare for a bit saltyness when doing this as a typical user. I’ve never done such things like opening up a monitor.. but have a basic understanding of electricity etc.
So the main issue seems to happen to the grounding not beeing connected anymore. I’ll post a image story I took all the way.. even to check whats exactly inside the Tobii stripe.
Everything looked fine at the beginning, taking a closer look (after slowly loosen the cables one by one – while softly pulling down each electricity
I saw that there was an heat shrink tubing on one side which had the black (grounding) cable left with no connection to the metal foil (which is getting grounded like shown on the picture). So that this whole electricity flow works (aka the tobii works) –
all I did was cut very softly around the cable to pull off the rubber to get a bit more of this black cable out of there.. trimmed the isolation off and bend those directly back into the metal shield and spinned it together with the metal “things”? (sorry im not a electic guy, even tho im very interested xD).
So for me its like: just grounding it because the part which is shown in the post, makes now total sense – the grounding it needs is not hitting anything due this cable isn’t connected with the metal shielding anymore.
with some electric tape I wrapped the whole again (just grounded it back to the foil, thats all). that was the easiest part tho of this whole process.
Now to the taking apart the monitor backplate.. first of all, like I have done it – this DOES LEAVE visible marks! All I needed was a small – screwdriver bit (to hold space open when re-adjusting) my “fry tool” – looking from a leatherman.. jumping through it went better the more I understood that this breaking sound mostly is Ok.. (broke some plastic clips holding it together off, but there are multiple so.. can live with that). Start of with the hole on the bottom right.. and work yourself around, with each crack you hear you can continue, you will see it will get more off and off the further you get (I just stuck it in between and turned/shaked it a bit till I heard a crack.. took the bit a bit further and stuck that fry tool the further it still fit in). Just watch some youtube videos for a bit better understanding there. It takes some dedicating to do this.. xD
After all of those clips went of the backplate jumps up a bit, watch out due 2 wires are connected (depending where the usb-hub & control panel (joystick & buttons) are, there I just started with looking if I either slowly stuck off the duct tapes or/and the wire connectors – with some tweezers you can just push the top of those pins, and pull it off slowly with you hand (unpluged only the left side (where the buttons & joystick are) and just flipped the plate open, after the cables where free. worked down to the eye bar and followed the cables it was too awesome. Inside the bar the pins are clearly showing there are atleast 4 cable cores – black | grounding, red | power / v , green | ? and white | ?(.. and another black one..) but on the side of the usb hub there are only 3 cores (red, white & green..) so where the f*** is the ground gone to. -> search for some shrinking tube, there the black one should’ve been connected to the isolation “firm(?)”.
Hope this clears it up a bit more now. As it took me now another day to do this process, I had also problems to many many many manual deinstallations that my tobii wasn’t getting installed anymore (like the installer always updated, instead of installing normally.. due I had no Tobii Service file.. or any other tobii application anymore on my drive – yes, manual deletion.); ended up with only getting the firmware files installed… after long trying and trying and… trying..
I went multiple times through my windows registry (regedit); searching for “Tobii” and deleted everything except the drivers (mostly something with driverstore; or with no permissions, due it was some kinda of filesystem thing). Many tries of this later. Multiple times those registry finds.. and hours later….
It started to work. The installation was finally done correctly, instead of just updating.. Software is starting up.. and… calibration process is working!!
I’m amazed. Like Dick1970 said “a creative solution” to use that shielding to connected one cable core to the grounding.. leading it to the bare metal in there to get the ground it needs.. (normally you would hook it up to some grounding (at the power supply)..
So.. this was my problem atleast. As we see if from Dick1970 this seems to be common.. and I’ve seen those typ of groundings already.. (asked some with more knowledge for that.. but wanted it to work for now..)
I took some pictures all the way, showing a bit closer view of what to watch out for and what I did (not completly but explained I hope so far good enough):
Thanks again Alan for the hint..
Thanks to Elite Dangerous, I went into those struggles.. xD
And now.. its already 3AM on Monday.. hope this helps! 🙂
Ghostychan. Lukas N